Cook up some fun, fab Cajun-Creole dishes at a French Quarter Café cooking class
By Shari Bishop Bowes
I've always wanted to take a trip to New Orleans, which I often hear described as a city full of amazingly decadent food, hot jazz and intriguing southern culture.
In my imaginary trips to the Big Easy, I dream in visions of crawfish etouffee, jambalaya, and huge, stuffed muffuletta sandwiches.
But in the meantime, I'm lucky to have the French Quarter Café nearby in Canmore.
It's not exactly a local's secret after 10 years operating in a somewhat out-of-the-way semi-industrial area of the town. Ardent fans of chef-owner Mike Raso's Cajun-Creole cuisine, hailing from all over the country and even further afield, can be found any time of the year dining in the intimate, casual 30-seat café with the local crowd.
The local's secret I'd like to share, however, is this: Get your name on the list for one of the French Quarter's hugely popular cooking classes right now. Held every second Tuesday, it's not uncommon to find yourself booking several months ahead to get a prized seat at the bar overlooking the open kitchen.
Taste buds take you as far south as Louisiana in a French Quarter Café cooking class.
I had the pleasure of sharing the FQC cooking class experience with some good friends recently - perhaps my fourth time back in the past couple of years.
Raso never runs out of material for new recipes and twists on the Cajun-Creole theme, as he takes an annual trip every January to the city of his inspiration for "research" and some well-earned R&R.
"I'm always looking for new things to bring in for the restaurant," he says.
While he searches out everything from hot new restaurants, great wines and different ingredients, he never fails to forget that some of the oldest restaurants on the continent are found in New Orleans.
"I always like to try out the old, traditional restaurants, too."
The night of our visit, our party of six is joined by perhaps the FQC's longest running fans of its cooking class - five good friends who have come dozens of times in the past nine years. The result is lots of back-and-forth banter amongst our group and a very entertaining Raso. The night is about good food, but, as in all things N'Awlins, it's also about having loads of fun.
Tonight's menu is set out before us as Raso begins first with dessert preparations - tonight's grand finale is the FQC's take on the classic apple crisp. After it's popped in the oven, Raso asks us to keep tabs on its cooking time to make sure it's perfectly done.
(Before I launch into a description of the rest of the night's menu, take heed: this is not light fare, and frying is commonplace for many a delicious menu item both at the FQC and at many hot dining spots in the famed Louisiana city. There are lots of lighter, or at least non-fried options on the FQC regular menu, but remember, whatever you choose, this is the kind of food that your taste buds remember for a long time.)
Next up in our class is prep for our first course, a spinach salad tossed with a delicious and simple apple, Creole mustard and warm pecan dressing.
As the dressing ingredients meld for a few minutes in the food processor, Raso launches right into a mouth-watering description of what we will be enjoying as our main course.
Cajun popcorn, the first of the triple treat that comprises our main, is inspired by chef Paul Prudhomme at his New Orleans restaurant, K-Paul's. Tonight, Raso is using fat, juicy crawfish tossed lightly in a spicy mixture that needs only a quick deep dry before serving. Next, it's a spicier version of zucchini sticks - again, these are nothing even close to greasy after a light fry in a big pan.
The centerpiece for our Cajun and Creole feast is oven baked pecan crusted chicken fingers with honey mustard sauce. Pecans are used in many dishes on the French Quarter's regular menu, and here they are just as delicious.
The next night I arrive to take a few more photos for my article, and find Raso back in the kitchen again, chatting amiably and serving wine as he works up another fine menu. This night it's shrimp and chicken in a spicy Creole sauce for the main. I stay long enough to have a bite of salad, take a few photos and help out by topping up a few glasses with red wine.
When Raso reaches the point of plating this evening's dessert - a glistening, dark chocolate torte ready for its coating in rich chocolate topping - I know it's time to leave.
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Chef Mike Raso demonstrates every step for a cooking class, starting with preparations for a fresh salad and ending, this night, with a to-die-for chocolate torte.
But I will be back soon. Mike tells me he's adding an authentic New Orleans muffuletta sandwich to the lunch menu in the next few weeks. It may be even sooner than that.
If You Go:
- The French Quarter Café is found at #4, 102 Boulder Crescent in Canmore. Hours are: Monday to Wednesday, 6:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Thursday and Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturdays 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Sundays. Yes, that means you can find a Cajun-Creole twist on your breakfast and lunch at the FQC, too.
- Reservations for dinner are recommended. Call 403.678.3612.
- Cooking classes are also by reservation, with additional classes booked for groups of 10 minimum, 16 maximum.
- The French Quarter serves up live jazz with talented local ensembles every second Friday.
- The FQC's own mix of Cajun spices, as well as a selection of hot sauces and Creole mustard, are available for sale in the restaurant.
- Here's a few French Quarter Café recipes to get your taste buds all jazzed up:
Cajun Popcorn
1 c all-purpose flour
2 tsp cayenne
2 tsp black pepper
2 tsp white pepper
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
Vegetable oil for frying
1 lb. crawfish tails or small shrimp, peeled
Lemon wedges (optional)
Tartar sauce (optional)
1. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the flour, cayenne, black and white pepper, chili powder, salt and sugar.
2. In a large, heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, heat about ¾ inch of vegetable oil over medium heat to 375 degrees F, or until very hot but not smoking. (A small cube of bread will sizzle and brown at this temperature.)
3. Working with about 1/3 of the crawfish at a time, dredge in the flour mixture, shake off the excess, and fry in the hot oil, turning with tongs, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Repeat with remaining crawfish.
4. Serve hot, with lemon wedges and tartar sauce for dipping, if desired.
Serves 4 to 6.
Oven Baked Pecan Crusted Chicken Fingers
1 cup pecan pieces
½ cup breadcrumbs
1 tbsp plus 2 tsp Creole seasoning
2 large eggs
¼ cup olive oil
2 pounds boneless chicken breasts cut lengthwise into strips
Chopped parsley for garnish
Honey mustard dipping sauce (recipe follows)
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
2. In the bowl of the food processor, combine the pecans, breadcrumbs, and seasoning. Pulse for 1 minute to combine. Pour into a shallow bowl.
3. In another bowl, beat the eggs, olive oil and remaining seasoning. One at a time, dip the chicken into the egg mixture then dredge in the pecan mixture, shaking off any excess. Transfer to baking sheet, and bake, turning once, until chicken is cooked through and golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes.
4. Serve with honey mustard sauce and chopped parsley.
Honey Mustard Sauce
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp honey
2 Tbsp Creole mustard
Pinch of salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper to taste
In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients and stir well to combine. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
Shari Bishop Bowes is editor of SolaraLife, and has a fond memory of the first time she shared the French Quarter Café's whiskey bread pudding with her then husband-to-be, Greg.
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