Mellow out in Kananaskis mountains at Mount Engadine Lodge
by Jennifer Groundwater
I'm sitting outside at Mount Engadine Lodge in Kananaskis Country, basking in the luxury of a cloudless sky, a sunny deck, and a stunning vista. "Ahhhhh," I think, "It doesn't get any better than this." Just then, the door to the lodge opens, and the seductive aroma of baking cookies wafts outside. "Hmm," I think. "I guess it does get better."
We have come for a few days of skiing and relaxation at this beautiful lodge close to Canmore. Only a 45-minute drive along the picturesque Spray Lakes Road, Engadine has the advantage of being the only Canadian Rockies backcountry lodge that you don't have to ski, hike or helicopter in to, which makes it perfect for families with young kids, like ourselves. You can drive in, enjoy an afternoon snack, and get right to the hard work of unwinding.
The lodge overlooks a marshy meadow that in summer is perfect moose habitat, and in winter ideal for easy cross-country skiing. A whole chain of mountains rises above the meadow, with the tracks made by hardy backcountry skiers clearly visible on nearby Tent Ridge.
The lodge can accommodate 28 guests, whether in the lodge rooms with shared bathrooms, or in the more luxurious suites or cabins with private bathrooms and gas fireplaces. The entire lodge has been renovated over the past two years, and the results are charming and cozy. Each bed has a luxurious down duvet, but there is not a television, phone or high-speed Internet connection to be seen - bliss!
The atmosphere at the lodge is decidedly mellow when we arrive, but nobody complains when our high-energy two-year-old starts playing with a Hot Wheels set he finds hidden behind a couch in the lounge. The sun is pouring in the huge south-facing windows and I feel like a cat, curled up on the couch and half asleep in its golden warmth. The walls are decorated with lots of old black-and-white Rockies prints, and there are carved wooden accents everywhere.
Mount Engadine Lodge offers a charming, welcoming experience for guests, who enjoy a phone and TV-free zone along with gourmet meals and cozy, comfortable rooms.
A big stone fireplace dominates the far end of the lounge, and just around the corner is another fireplace near a library area well-stocked with books of all kinds: potboilers, guidebooks, coffee table books, and an impressive selection of recent CanLit. I would like to dive right in and read for a week, but we know there's a big dinner coming up, so we decide to go out for a little ski.
We head out onto the trackset trails in the meadow below the lodge. At any minute, I expect a moose to put its head out from behind a bush, but there are none to be seen, and no prints either. There's just the three of us, swooshing along and feeling quite remote from ordinary life.
The lodge's manager, Blake O'Brian, tells me: "We want to encourage people to spend time in the outdoors, enjoying the peace and quiet, just hanging out." As we ski, it occurs to me that we are falling right in line with the Engadine philosophy. I think I like it.
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Mount Engadine Lodge may be just a short drive from Canmore, but its pristine mountain location makes is seem even further away. Guests enjoy the views from the deck, and miles of trails for hiking and cross-country skiing that start just outside the door.
At dinner that night, we enjoy a fantastic meal, complete with fresh homemade bread and a decadent chocolate cake. Sharing tables makes for fun conversations, and we enjoy getting to know the other guests at the lodge, as well as Blake and Val Mcleod, the masterminds behind the delicious food.
After supper, we can help ourselves to a hot drink and hang out as long as we like, but the moon is almost full, so we step onto the deck and stand awestruck at the scene before us. The meadows and the snow on Mounts Smuts and Birdwood are absolutely aglow in pure silver moonlight, each tree casting its own perfect shadow. It's otherworldly, one of the most pristine and beautiful scenes I have ever experienced.
Next morning, after a breakfast of French toast with real maple syrup, bacon, and fresh fruit salad, we pack up our lunch and get ready to go to Mount Shark for a morning of skiing. Lunch is a make-your-own affair that's set out in the dining room after breakfast. Guests pile up big hearty sandwiches, hardboiled eggs, carrot and celery sticks, homemade cookies and trail mix before heading out for a day of adventure. Today the weather gods are smiling on us and we enjoy a nice warm day to ski and picnic at Watridge Lake in the sunshine.
In winter, people come primarily for the cross-country skiing on the nearby trails at Mount Shark, Chester Lake, Rummel Lake and Burstall Pass, though Blake points out that there is also "awesome steep stuff to do out here" for those who prefer a more vertical challenge and some backcountry powder turns. In summer, Engadine is a hub of activity in the early morning, with happy hikers setting out to tackle the dozens of trails in the area.
Blake and his wife, Jennifer Lee, have initiated a series of weekend yoga retreats at the lodge. Hmm, a delicious meal followed by some yoga, then a ski. Repeat through the day as needed. Sounds fantastic. I make a mental note to return one weekend sans husband and son.
Afternoons at the lodge are quiet times, since most people are out doing their day's activity. We put Finn in our room for his nap and head out to the deck, which is free of snow. It's warm enough to sit outside in shirtsleeves (definitely not typical of February in the Rockies). I try to read, but my attention is diverted by the antics of the Stettler's Jays, Gray Jays, and Chickadees that hang around looking for handouts.
I am falling completely under the spell of Mount Engadine Lodge itself. It's promoted as a "peaceful place for body, mind and spirit". I let the peaceful feeling wash over me and wonder what kind of cookies are baking.
I'm certain they will be unforgettable, like everything else about Engadine.
If You Go:
Mount Engadine Lodge is located on the Spray Lakes Road just before the turnoff for Mount Shark ski area. Visit www.mountengadine.com or call 403.678.4080 for information on rates, reservations and upcoming retreats.
The lodge is open through April 24th, then closed until June 12th, when it re-opens for summer activities.
Jennifer Groundwater is a Canmore-based freelance writer who ate way more than she skied while at Mount Engadine Lodge. And loved every minute of it.
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